Presented on Friday and Saturday, the three brands—Isabel Marant, Kolor,and LGN (Louis Gabriel Nouchi)—all rose to the challenges they faced, both in terms of evolving their style and product offerings and in consolidating the work of their respective creative directors.
Isabel Marant: Kim Bekker sets a new tone for menswear
A new chapter for Isabel Marant menswear. Presented this Friday at the brand’s Place des Victoires location in Paris, the Spring/Summer 2027 collection is the first designed by Kim Bekker, who now oversees both the men’s and women’s lines. This collection remains true to the bohemian-chic DNA of the Marant men’s line. Checkered shirts make a return, crafted from lightweight Japanese fabrics or thicker cotton with distressed and faded effects; tribal and graphic patterns, as well as denim jackets featuring beaded embellishments or geometric prints, remain prominent.
In terms of style, the transition is subtle, with a more fitted cut on bottoms and denim, a selection of summer fabrics, the inclusion of casual tailored pieces in premium materials, as well as color-block sweatshirts—which add a sporty touch to the collection—and numerous stylish accessories such as distressed leather bags and silver or copper-toned jewelry. The Marant collection is conceived as the expression of the wardrobe of creative, active, and well-traveled men, with pieces tailored to their favorite destinations—from the Amalfi Coast to Ibiza, through the cradles of European culture, all the way to Los Angeles and the deserts of Arizona.
“The idea was to show just how multifaceted a man’s style can be,” explains the creative director. He has traveled all over the world and picked up pieces here and there along the way.
“These are pieces that have stood the test of time and will always remain relevant.”
But it is above all in the presentation of the collection that Isabel Marant is moving forward compared to the work of Barnabe Hardywho spent eight years working alongside the founder and former CEO Anouck Duranteau-Loeper and was in charge of the men’s ready-to-wearand accessories for men. As the designer prepares to leave the company on June 30 to focus on new projects, Bekker has surrounded herself with industry leaders to develop the brand’s aesthetic. Isabel Marant has enlisted the stylist Imruh Asha and enlisted the services of British photographer Brett Lloyd. Lloyd captures French designer Bachir Mbaye, Italian artist Tito Rapetti, French singer, composer, and producer Hervé, Swiss model Jesse Rinderknecht, and Portuguese artist Nuno Marques in intimate, arty settings. This quintet brings a multifaceted vision to the brand. The collection will be available in the network of 85 stores in early 2027.
Louis Gabriel Nouchi dreams of snow-capped mountains in the midst of a heat wave
It was in the stifling space at 40 rue Volta (in Paris’s 3rd arrondissement) that Louis Gabriel Nouchi shared his dreams of snow-capped mountains. Inspired by the American series “Twin Peaks,” directed by David Lynch, the Parisian label’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection was marked by a few small revolutions, starting with the color palette used. Gone—or nearly gone—are the monochromatic, beige, or black outfits. Make way for patterns and fall colors.
This season, LGN presented brown pants held up by a belt with a large black buckle—later reimagined as shorts—paired with chunky black boots and a waist-length trench coat featuring wide straps at the cuffs. Black sailor shirts with thin white stripes (a pattern also featured on ties) were mixed with black-and-white checkered scarves. The palette was brightened by a beige overshirt with wide, short sleeves and large pockets, tucked into the pants; a cream V-neck sweater with a distressed look and two horizontal black stripes running across it; or by a wine-colored trench coat worn over a loose-fitting beige suit, followed by a series of black or gray jackets with vertical stripes.
“It’s built around this cast of characters,” explained the eponymous designer after the show, pointing to the photos in the lookbook.
“So, for example, this inspector who shows up in this village where everyone looks perfect, when in fact, they’re all completely out of it, just like all of us this week. He meets this teenager on a Harley-Davidson motorcycle—they’re all wearing sunglasses. And this woman who looks a little too perfect, a little bourgeois, but at the same time, very dangerous, like Laura Palmer—she just shows up among all these men, and in the end, we don’t know if they’re all heading to a brothel or to a funeral—maybe a little of both,” he jokes.
“The color palette is inspired by the outdoor world. [Usually] we stick to black, but this time we’re really taking a lot more creative liberties with shades of brown—moss green, khaki, chestnut… it’s something new. “There’s a lot of me in it, as always, but this time I’m willing to open up a little more.”
This season, Louis Gabriel Nouchi also presented his very first women’s capsule collection, integrated into the runway show, featuring a delicate, lightweight dress with a plunging neckline and multiple straps, reflecting the label’s well-known sensuality. The brand does not appear to have specific commercial goals for this women’s line, but its founder and creative director is confident.
“We’ll see how it goes—we’re getting great feedback, strong sales, and support from top retailers,” he says. While the United States remains the brand’s largest market, ahead of Europe, it now aims to expand into the Asian market.
Kolor embraces color and diversity
“Perhaps we’re all aliens to someone. And perhaps that’s precisely what connects us,” writes Taro Horiuchi in the manifesto for his second collection at Kolor. Horiuchi, who replaced Junichi Abe as creative director in 2025, presents a vibrant collection this season that blends outdoor and classic styles.
Kolor thus presented its many silhouettes along a path of white tiles and mirrors as an ode to cultural diversity. The garments on display seemed to be drawn from everyday life: a short blue trench coat worn over a black sweater with a blue V-neck, which in turn was worn over a gray sweater. The model, whose eyes were entirely black, wore gray canvas pants whose legs fall over a pair of flat shoes with brown uppers split by a light blue stripe. A greyish tartan formed a pair of pants or a short, puffy skirt, while denim—in blue or grass green—was cut and assembled into ensembles.
The Kolor style allows you to be well-dressed while retaining a touch of originality scattered throughout the collection—in the multicolored stripes of a polo-neck sweater, in the constellation of holes punched into a jacket, thus creating a patterned effect, in the purple and orange stripes across the hips of gray striped pants, in the double collar of a purple polo shirt with a keyhole neckline, or even in the vibrant green of several suits worn—sometimes with the collar turned. up—featuring flowers in the breast pocket.
This season, Kolor’s collection stood out in particular with a pair of shoes created in collaboration with the outdoor brand Merrellbased on a silver hydro Next Gen Moc and a black Vibram sole, all accented with black and white elastic bands and orange, green, and blue patches. Vibram also partnered with the brand on other footwear styles, such as brown leather boots featuring white-thread embroidered patterns.
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