COS makes runway return with cinematic show in Seoul

London-based COS continued its busy runway return with a debut show in Korea, presenting the house’s SS26 collection in Seoul, following shows across Europe and four consecutive appearances on September’s New York Fashion Week schedule.

Described as a ‘cinematic return to the runway’, the show “explored the language of cinematic beauty… each piece reflecting a balance of ’80s and ’90s nostalgia, articulated through silhouettes shaped by craftsmanship, materiality and precise tailoring”.

The show unfolded within a brutalist-inspired space on the outer edges of the city where unused pools were reimagined to “create a surreal architectural canvas”, while the set was “grounded in simplicity, material duality and modernism” and introduced a “clean, geometric spatial intervention, an unexpected stage” for the collection.

Captured on the Seoul subway, its soundtrack played the sounds of the city while models moved along a platform interwoven with structural columns.

Forty distinctive looks revealed a palette of slate greys, warm browns, creams and whites, “establishing tonal harmony and a sense of understated uniformity”. Accents of blue and deep oxblood red punctuated the collection.

Leather and technical fabrics were key while linens added textural depth.

Womenswear encapsulated a “distilled simplicity reminiscent of ’90s minimalism”, softened by fine, sheer ribbed knits across dresses and coordinating styles, while strong shoulders introduced a subtle nod to ’80s power dressing.

Silk recurs throughout the collection: softly pleated, sculpted into an off-shoulder gown, and expressed through a signature shirt.

The looks were completed with “wardrobe icons” reimagined through the COS lens, including supple leather plimsolls, architecturally heeled mules and bags crafted in complementing fabrics.

In Menswear, “new perspectives reconfigure everyday dressing”. Transitional outerwear “evokes a sense of modern heritage”, while relaxed tailoring is cut in slimmer silhouettes.

Pared-back utility references emerge through functional detailing, while tonal ensembles “inspired by ’80s styling offer a fresh interpretation of the contemporary uniform”.

Suede also introduces “a quiet yet assured sense of luxury to warm-weather dressing” and accessories finish the looks with soft leather sandals and loafers.

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