Following his departure from Balmain in November 2025, olivier rousteing is reported to have embarked on a discreet collaboration with Rabanneowned by the Catalan group Pugh. According to investigative outlet Glitz, the designer is already working on future collections for the brand, although the publication did not specify the nature of the collaboration. In early April, Renaud de Lesquen, former head of Givenchy, was appointed president of Rabanne’s fashion and fragrance activities.. With current artistic director Julien Dossena in post since 2013, the presence of Olivier Rousteing within the brand’s creative set-up, if confirmed, would inevitably raise questions about Dossena’s future.
Such a return for Olivier Rousteing would follow a landmark 15-year tenure of the French designer at Balmain, owned by the Qatari holding company Mayhoola. Appointed artistic director of the house in 2011, he profoundly shaped the brand’s visual identity, working with numerous stars and revitalizing the house’s fortunes. He was ultimately removed from the role in November 2025. His recent deletion from Instagram of posts related to his time at Balmain had, a few days ago, already signaled as much.
This potential shift comes at a very specific moment for the Catalan company, primarily a fragrance specialist that also owns Jean Paul Gaultier, Dries Van Noten,and Nina Ricci. In January, its French subsidiary Puig France absorbed the various companies operating its brands in France under a plan dubbed “One Brand.” This move covered Paco Rabanne and its 92 employees, which, in its latest accounts, reported turnover of €43 million and a loss of €5.2 million. The listed group, still led by the founding family, is in the midst of seeking closer ties with the US giant Estée Lauder.
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