Elsewhere in Paris: Pierre Cardin, Sandro

Pierre Cardin brought down the curtains on Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday night with a Venetian-themed display, while Sandro showed a Summer of Love collection in the beautiful Opera Comique.

Pierre Cardin: AI Flash Gordon in St Mark’s Square

A futuristic look by Pierre Cardin – © Pierre Cardin Evolution

People often seem to forget their Pierre Cardin was a Venetian, born in nearby Treviso. His wine merchant parents immigrated to France to escape fascist black shirts in 1924, when Pierre was a boy of two, but he always kept a love of the Serene Republic deep within his veins.
It came out again Tuesday evening at the final show of Paris Fashion Week, staged in his historic boutique, looking onto the Elysées Palace, on Rue du Faubourg St Honoré.

A collection which played on Venetian ideas from space age doges hats to courtier’s colours, to a fantasy Vogalonga, the island city’s great rowing regatta.

Metallics at Pierre Cardin – © Pierre Cardin Evolution

Since his passing aged 98 in 2020, the house has been led by his nephew Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, who took the ovation at the end of the show, where models marched through the boutique and outside on the broad sidewalk.
Creative director Rodrigo created a whole series of AI action with large videos imagining Venice, as if the Cardan family had recreated it with technicolor gondoliers, futuristic gondoliers, and boatmen and a high-tech vaporetto.
A whole new vision of how the great city might work. While the clothes’ clues were echoes and re-edits of some of Cardin’s avant garde designs, swirling capes, geometrical doublets, Venetian casaccas. Worn with loads of leggings and booties with embossed PC logos. All topped by spacy shades- Flash Gordon in St Mark’s Square. Which, as an exercise in brand building, wasn’t half bad at all.

Sandro: Entente cordiale cool

The scene for Sandro's show — The scene for Sandro’s show – Sandro- Facebook

In fashion, as in finance, there are bell weather stocks and bellwether brands, and one of them in Paris is Sandro.
Which this season presented a very swish and professional collection inside the Opera Comique of Paris. A beautiful late 19th century, Gustav Eiffel-era building with wonderful frescoes, beneath which was placed the collection.
Seen in a series of well-lit tableaux for both men and women, and featuring the new demi volume shape, which is the new trend in fashion. Sandro showed sleek double-breasted leather jackets; Impeccable worsted wool boleros over short, frilly, crepe skirts. A marvelous shearing/fur collared topcoat; high neck, Saharans; easy to wear and understand, semi cocoon leather pants, worn with an Argyle sweater.
Blending 70s UK rigor and party time paisley with French femininity, in the historic Opera, where Bizet’s Carmen was first performed.
“It’s a perfect location- one of Paris architectural jewels. And ideal for what we are expressing in this collection, which evokes the summer of love,” said Augustin Letellier, Sandro’s CMO.
Noting that the lookbook was shot in the Opera Comique, and in its famed roof-top costume department.
Models moved around the space, as guests sipped champagne and admired a savvy display of easy-to-understand dressing.
Best of all, a lean herringbone, cashmere coat with a funnel neck, that any woman would be happy to have in a wardrobe. For men, there were petrol blue leather jerkins, paired with pleated pants. Shearling coats that looked like mink but were not. And an excellent dry wool blouson, worn with a long collared shirt, over gray denim jeans.

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