MBFWMadrid moves forward in its transformation. The catwalk entered a new phase last year under the direction of Asier Labarga, with Valentina Suárez-Zuloaga at the helm of creative direction. The couple led last September’s edition of the Madrid eventthe first to step outside IFEMA (the organizing entity and historic venue for the fashion shows) and a clear statement of intent. This March’s edition has consolidated that new project: MBFWMadrid is shedding its skin and aims to be more international, more attractive to professional buyers, a multi-format support platform for national talent, and a showcase for Spanish craftsmanship. The result? The foundations are steadily settling and, with the cogs now in place and well oiled, the machinery is beginning to run.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid began on March 17 with a show by Colombian designer Johanna Ortiz at the Círculo de Bellas Artes. The designer took the baton from Silvia Tcherassi, another Colombian who appeared on the catwalk as a guest in the September edition. Ortiz, known for her colourful, tropical designs created for a relaxed life on the world’s most luxurious coasts, from Marseille to Saint-Tropez, ventured into an autumnal wardrobe without losing her signature, with a collection rich in ruffles, embroidery, flowing silhouettes and a palette of warm colors ranging from rust to bottle green, anchored by black.
“My heart is overjoyed by the welcome Madrid has given me and the opportunity to show the world what we do with so much love from Colombia. The Spanish public has given us a truly warm reception; women identify closely with the Johanna Ortiz style and it’s a joy to be here, meeting and seeing clients,” said the designer to FashionNetwork.com the day after the show, while, in the iconic Metropolis Building on Madrid’s Gran Vía, she hosted a meeting with the press and clients.
From SEV’s debut to Pedro del Hierro’s autumn in color
Just a few minutes’ walk from this venue, at the Palacio de Cibeles, the first full day of shows for the 83rd edition of MBFWMadrid unfolded. SEV, the ready-to-wear brand from Sophie et Voilà, renowned in Spain and, above all, internationally for its minimalist bridalwear, made its catwalk debut with a collection that translated the house codes into ready-to-wear: sophistication, polished, architectural silhouettes, and a restrained, decidedly contemporary femininity.
Juan Vidal, meanwhile, turned up the color dial. Although the catwalk was focused on collections for next autumn-winter, the firm made flowers and bright, energetic tones the raison d’être of its collection. Titled ‘Eden’ and inspired by a trip the designer took to Istanbul, it brought together a confluence of Eastern and Western references. “It has elements from all over the world, some from Japan, some from India, some from the Mediterranean. The collection speaks of all of us and of being together in a world that is in complete disarray,” the designer commented backstage, minutes before the show.
For Vidal, a seasoned MBFWMadrid participant, it was his first time showing outside IFEMA, under the light filtered through the windows of the Palacio de Cibeles. “I think changes are positive in the fashion world because what stagnates ends up disappearing. I sense this new phase of the catwalk is full of energy; it’s at the beginning: there will be many hits and misses that will be refined and perfected. A phase is being shaped that, I believe, is going to be very fruitful,” he added.
At this stage of its development, the catwalk is firmly intent on boosting its international profile. Does this benefit brands like Juan Vidal’s? “100%. We have a large market in Los Angeles and New York, we have Latin American clients… Our reach is global thanks to social media and this helps us stay closer to them,” added the designer. His brand, with a couture and bridal atelier in Madrid, pursues its international business via online channels and its own e-commerce site.
Unlike Juan Vidal, Pedro del Hierro returned on March 18 to the Palacio de Cibeles, where it had presented its spring 2026 collection in September. This time, the brand’s creative directors, Nacho Aguayo (womenswear) and Álex Miralles (menswear), were inspired by a winter garden and Spanish still lifes to define their color palette and shape a romantic collection, presented in a mixed show.
“In the previous show we had a very sunny day that enhanced our color story, so we wanted to repeat. This autumn collection has a very solid base of browns and greens with flashes of color that bring incredible vibrancy to the show,” the designers commented. “As for the new stage of the catwalk, there is a desire for change. We see a greater international presence and a will to position ourselves among the major European catwalks. A great effort is being made by the organization to improve, and it’s appreciated,” they added.
Different types of brands find their place at MBFWMadrid: from Pedro del Hierro’s mainstream fashion, part of the Tendam group, to Claro Couture, a Sevillian label focused on made-to-measure couture in its ateliers in the Andalusian capital and Madrid. The firm is, in fact, opening up the Middle Eastern market, and its development in the area has been affected by the ongoing conflict. “We had just closed an order with a multi-brand retailer in Kuwait for our prêt-à-couture collection. It is our first international stockist, but for the moment we have paused production and shipping. We are in talks with the client and hope that everything will be resolved soon. On the B2C side, the Middle East is a market where we have made quite a few sales,” explained Fernando Claro, CEO of Claro Couture, minutes after the company’s show.
In the same made-to-measure vein is the proposal by Isabel Sanchis. The Valencian brand, a regular on the MBFWMadrid calendar, swapped IFEMA’s carpeting for the sunlit Palacio de Cibeles to present a highly structured collection, with rich, complex patterns (a house signature) and disruptive elements. A luminous flower on the back of a dress stood out, as did another design constructed from small illuminated panels, like a puzzle. Haute couture with nods to dominant catwalk trends, such as elbow-length gloves and a penchant for shades like aubergine.
Teresa Helbig and her 30th anniversary
MBFWMadrid also seeks to be the setting for celebrations and special presentations by Spanish brands, hence its commitment to step outside IFEMA and have brands stage shows at venues such as the Palacio de Fernán Núñez or the Círculo de Bellas Artes. “IFEMA will continue to be the headquarters, but we are aware that there are designers and brands and, above all, specific moments that need a unique space to present a collection, such as an anniversary,” explained Asier Labarga, director of the catwalk. It was precisely her 30th anniversary that Teresa Helbig celebrated at the Infanta Isabel Theatre: the Barcelona designer, in a moving presentation, marked her three decades in the fashion industry with a collection that distilled the delicacy of the Helbig girls, always with her festive, rock-inflected touch.
Teresa Helbig’s brand, with textile craftsmanship and bespoke design as two of its pillars, has a solid international presence and, in September, traveled to the United States on its own “trade mission” to get closer to its local clientele. The designer’s singular vision, which also encompasses the bridal world, has been captivating audiences within and beyond Spain’s borders for three decades.
From Cibeles to another palace, the Palacio de Fernán Núñez, the action moved on March 19 to this Madrid enclave, where firms such as Ynesuelves, Mans, Ernesto Naranjo, Baro Lucas, and The Label Edition presented their designs. And on March 20, 21, and 22, the IFEMA fairground was again the stage, with the presentations of Simorra, Coosy (in partnership with Miguel Palacio), Agatha Ruiz de la PradaCusto Barcelona, Yolancris, and Lola Casademunt by Maite. These firms were joined by the young designers participating in EGO, a platform for emerging talent that marked its 20th anniversary this March.
An updated awards programme, alliances with local administrations (such as the Government of Aragón, which collaborated with the catwalk through its “Aragón a mano” mark), and the presence of globally recognized figures in the fashion industry, such as tastemaker and entrepreneur Leandra Medine, one of the pioneers of digital influence. These were among the initiatives with which MBFWMadrid, in its latest edition, advanced towards its new catwalk model- one that listens to and addresses the diverse needs of the Spanish fashion industry.
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